Or, how nationalist can a country be that wants to join the European Union?
Continued from
Part A
Each people of course is unique, but Croats are uniquely unique! The national history also has it that Croats invented the tie – an assertion that seems to build on the fact that the German word for tie is “Krawatte” and it is close to the Croatian name of Croatia, Hrvatska.
Then there are the churchyards and memorials. Take Vukovar where a huge Arlington-like memorial has been built a bit out of town. Hundreds of crosses in lines with no names but with Croatian flags in front of every and each cross. The only people to be remembered are Croats and all who died were Croats irrespective of whether perhaps they may have been of mixed nationality, felt like something else but Croats or may even had registered themselves as Yugoslavs at the time.
Croatian War Cemetery & Memorial, Vukovar
Hundreds of marble crosses. No names, flags only. (August 2008).
© Jan Oberg 2008
That memorial is very well kept, blessed with a huge modern sculpture and a flame. But drive a few kilometres back to town and look for the churchyard and memorial for the fallen Serbs. That has no elegance, no well kept lawns and no sculptures. But also no flags.
The Serb churchyard with people who died many years before the dissolution wars of Yugoslavia in Vukovar makes a sad view. Knocked over and broken gravestones, high grass and weed, gravestones that have been sprayed with submachine-gun bullets. I silently wonder how many times can a dead person or family be killed?
Orthodox Churchyard in Vukovar, Croatia
A sad view and one that indicates that Serbs have not come back and cannot maintain it - while the Croatian state ignores to revere even its own citizens. Most people buried here died many years before the war. As Croatian citizens. (August 2008)
© Jan Oberg 2008
Since there are so few and almost only very old Serbs left here and fewer returnees, how could they have been kept in a better shape? And to be sure, a Catholic church now towers over this wilderness of the dead. No one in this Croatized municipality seems to have the idea, or decency, to keep churchyards tidy and revere the dead citizens, at least not if they are not Croats.
I am sure that official Croatia subscribes to the principle that we are all born equal. And that citizens have equal rights. But have no illusion about practise. Even after death, people’s dignity and equality is completely disregarded here.
Orthodox Churchyard in Vukovar, Croatia
Gravestones for Serbs in the front, a newly renovated Catholic church behind.
© Jan Oberg 2008
If you are interested in whether or not there are hopeful signs of re-conciliation and of some lessons learnt from the war – well, come and see for yourself. Virtually all the international government missions and civil society organisations have left Croatia. From their elegant offices and assemblies in Brussels and Washington, bureaucrats and diplomats believe the official Croatian government story and diplomats nowadays don’t muddy their shoes by going to the field and see for themselves. Perhaps they know what they’ll find and conveniently prefer to stay away?
Next, there are all the changes of street names and squares. In the majority of towns and villages I drove through, the main square and street is now “Trg Dr. Franjo Tudjman” or “Dr. Franjo Tudjman ulica” – or some other nationalist, historical figure. This psychological offensive against any non-Croat in this country goes hand in hand with the post-war statutes of Tudjman on main squares.
In Vukovar, just opposite the Dunav Hotel, for instance, the land that used to host a small memorial park for Serb war victims has been flattened and replaced by a statute of Tudjman, the father of the country. He can see his mirror image in a glass building on the other side of that square – one of the few that have been built since 1995 in this God-forsaken ghost town of ruins, surreal evidence of past glory and amazing natural beauty.
Dr. Franjo Tudjman
Statute on the main square of Vukovar, Croatia (August 2008)
© Jan Oberg 2008
In Pakrac in Western Slavonia, the small Tudjman memorial park and statute stands opposite a house ruin on a corner through the windows and roof of which now grows huge trees. So, Croatia has funds for Dr. Tudjman, the old war criminal, but not for rebuilding the town for its citizens.
On August 5, I had dinner at a restaurant near Osijek, waiters and waitresses and the few clients glued to the television screen. I see war film, parades, tanks, Tudjman and flags, flags… had forgotten that it was August 5 a national holiday,
Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day.
What is celebrated is the allegedly largest land offensive in Europe since World War II,
Operation Storm conducted by the Croatian Army in 1995.
The operation drove more than 200 000 Croatian Serbs who had roots 400 years back in Croatia’s Krajina (border areas) and, thus, not “occupiers” as media at the time would have us believe. Then EU envoy, Carl Bildt, now foreign minister of Sweden, has called “Storm” ‘the most efficient ethnic cleansing we have seen in the Balkans.’ Many who were too old to flee were murdered. In addition to this mega crime, a few days later in Operation Flash, the little newly recognized state ran over all UN peacekeeping missions and sent the world organization running and then proceeded to cleanse Western Slavonia of the “cancer on the Croatian belly” that Serbs had been called by prime minister Hrvoje Sarinic.
Ante Gotovina poster
Indicted at the Hague for crimes against humanity. Posters of him indicate that he is considered a war hero and that, if truth were told, he would be innocent. Croatian flag on top. (August 2008).
© Jan Oberg 2008
This sort of thing is celebrated in today’s Croatia. The former president of the country, an anti-semitic, semi-fascist with nationalist ethnic cleansing on top of his agenda – together with militarism, nepotism and favouritism – is paid homage to on every street corner and revered as Father of the Nation!
Would it compare to flags, parades and personality cult for Milosevic the “nationalist” in Serbia and Karadzic, the “bucher” in Bosnia? Celebrating the Srebrenica Massacre as National Day? If so, what would the international so-called community, Brussels and Washington say? Bomb them again, or what? Tudjman was very lucky to die in cancer before he could be brought to the Hague – if at all, for he was ‘our son of a bitch’ in the West.
The Serbs have made up the account with their terrible wartime leaders. When will the Croats with theirs? For mass-killing is a crime and ethnic cleansing is something we – in the name of civilisation and humanity – don’t celebrate. Or do we, in Europe?
If this is European civilization by the year 2008, that civilization is in decay. If this shall be accepted in today’s EU, neither Croats nor the rest of Europe have learned anything from history and we may therefore well see it repeated some time in the future.
In 95% of the media coverage of Milosevic, he is described as a nationalist. But those stating that he was a nationalist doesn’t have clue about Milosevic, a man who gladly sacrificed Serbs when it suited his own power and his games with other Yugoslav top leaders; at least Tudjman had one principle, namely to defend Croats everywhere.
I believe it is fair to say that the politically convenient and media-conveyed silence about Croatia’s past, the rampant nationalism of its Father and its leaders and people up till this very day is one convincing evidence of the thoroughly bad conscience about all this in Europe and the US.
And that is exactly why it shall be pointed out again and again. Croatia’s omnipresent human rights violating nationalism is one thing. The EU and US cover-up of it is – actually, even more morally repugnant.
Croatia must do away with its nationalism – the outward visible and the inward psychological it reflects. It must abolish it senseless celebration of its war crimes and invite, really welcome, those innocent people its dark nationalism cleansed away. Only then should it be considered a candidate for EU membership.
Croatian War Cemetery & Memorial, Vukovar
Small lamps in the foreground with Croatia's flag and three colours. (August 2008)
© Jan Oberg 2008
See also "The Serb minority's situation in Croatia 17 years after t...
JO # 1225
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